Bhaiyya in Bangalore: the street food scene in India’s Silicon valley
Bangalore, the silicon valley of India, is the hub of numerous IT companies. You can guess a person’s destination based on the road they are on. Vehicles honk, pedestrians sprint across busy lanes-at speed that would make Superman question his abilities-with utmost faith in their hand which surprisingly causes traffic to stop diligently, putting the traffic lights to shame.
In all the chaos, let’s not forget that while it is the city that wears this engraved crown, it is also popular for its food scene — be it fine dining or street food. Koramangala, Indiranagar and MG road is where the party comes alive. The roads are always buzzing with music from restaurants and nightclubs that line the street, high heels that slap the footpath and auto-drivers calling out to potential customers. From microbreweries to pubs to cafes to breakfast bites you will find yourself spinning in circles trying to decide where to eat. You’ll find Chinese, Cantonese, Vietnamese, South Indian delicacies, authentic Asian, Arabian, Italian cuisine. Look around and your eyes will land on quaint places that serve the best Kappa (Coffee), wood-fried pizza, pancakes, waffles, souffle, pastries and English breakfast spreads too.
But in all the hum-drum, the corners stay reserved by Bhaiyya. This is not simply a title. This is a responsibility; a recognition. If he doesn’t make the momos right? Someone’s day ends on a sad note. If he cracks the puri a little too hard? Paani puri doesn’t taste the same. If he doesn’t yell, “ah! schezwan noodle masala dosa”? The queue only gets longer while drooling mouths hang open in anticipation.
The best part? All the food can fit well within a tight budget!
Here is a list of the gems in the city that have been tried, tested and recommended by netizens:
- VV Puram
- Central Tiffin Room (Malleshwaram)
- Khan Saheb Grills and Rolls (Indiranagar)
- Mosque Road (Frazer town)
- Eat Street (Koramangala)
- Veena Stores
- Karnataka Bhel House — Basavanagudi
- Hari Super Sandwich — Jayanagar
Why do people in a city like Bangalore need a budget? Well, it’s no surprise that not every single person is rolling in money. People are on their feet, working shifts, extra shits, overtime and even though there are door-step deliveries to battle hunger, the paani-puri Bhaiyya around the corner emerges as the saviour of the day!
Watching butter sizzle on a hot pan and soft bread soak in the red vegetable mix, eyes scan the workstation looking for the chosen plate. When the onion is sprinkled better than Salt Bae (the Turkish Chef) and another cube of butter slides off the knife and onto the plate, the dish is ready to be savoured.
Sandwiches and fresh juices like sugarcane are easily available on the streets too. Indian Chinese, South Indian-Chinese fusion dishes, north Indian bhajjis and hot, steam (or fried) momos co-exist, thriving as small businesses alongside chic restaurants. On a late Friday night, you might witness people exiting pubs, bars and high-class restaurants, making their way towards a small stall where they enjoy the malai kulfi and selfies.
99 Variety Dosa, HSR layout food street
It’s no secret that there are concerns regarding health and hygiene factors when it comes to food from a stall set up on the footpath. Recently, due to cases of Cholera during the month of March, Bruhat Bengaluru Mahanagara Palike (BBMP) cleared the streets of food vendors. In the past video clips have surfaced online where Bhaiyyas (location unknown) have not bothered to pay attention to hygiene. Proof of unclean hands, littered surroundings and inappropriately touching themselves have caused the public -especially street foodies-to end up standing on shaky ground when it comes to trust.
Due to this mistrust, hard-workers whose only source of income is a food stall could face serious struggles to survive. Bangalore is not cheap. Nobody entertains a bargainer in Commercial Street anymore. That’s how much the times have changed. It could be lack of education, presence of mind or the chalta-hai (it’s okay) attitude Indians usually portray. Neither does the cook mind that flies hover over the kebabs on a stick, neither does the customer even though they frown and complain.
What could be done then? Should someone pay three times the price for paani puri at a high-end restaurant whenever they crave chaat? Should roadside food be banned altogether so that we can march towards a healthier India?
The government could take precautions to ensure that the food served is good quality, at the very least. They could allot street space to these vendors. This way, footpaths all over the city aren’t blocked. Another plus point is that this allotted space could act as a beacon of light to which people and vendors are attracted to just like moths to a flame. Clean space, good crowd, line of Bhaiyyas offering delicious street food could possibly be a step toward progress and improvement.
With platforms like Instagram, Twitter and Youtube, these suggestions can grab the attention of those who can and must take corrective measures. Doing away with the problem doesn’t equal a suggestion. If the stalls are closed, it doesn’t mean people will stop wishing for chaat or stop the working class from finding a loophole. The ideas are in plain sight.
Maybe it is that little voice of uncertainty in us that asks the question — “if it’s not on the side of a footpath, but in a proper mini stall with chairs and tables, will it even taste like street food? Will it feel like street food?”
It’s a dilemma! The elephant in the room here is- will it make a difference to the taste of the dish only because the surroundings are cleaner?
When I think back to what I love about living in a PG (paying guesthouse) I am immediately reminded of the short walking distance from the door to the Momo stall, Kolkata kaati roll stand and of course, the paani puri Bhaiyya.
Bangalore is popular for its food scene — be it fine dining or street food. The next time you are in the city, maybe check out a gem and then find one on your own?
Sources :
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